Now, while continuing to apply torque, insert your pick and find and slowly lift the pin stack. It is usually possible to insert the torque tool at either the top or bottom part of the keyway. You may want to use one of the smaller torque tools as well, or put your torque tool in the bottom part of the keyway instead of the (curvy) top. You'll probably want to use one of the smaller LAB picks, although the small Peterson hook will sometimes do with care and practice. This pick is a Peterson "Hook" with a plastic handle. For this exercise, you'll use your torque tool and pick on the two pin lock to put the pins in each of these states to learn what they feel like with your pick. Learn what a pin in that state feels like. It feels "squishy," with more resistance than from just the spring. It feels "springy," as it does when no torque is applied. One of them should feel springy, just as it did with no torque applied. As you lift the pin stack with torque applied, eventually its cut will reach the shear line, allowing the plug to turn; the top pin will then be completely trapped in the shell, while the bottom pin stays in the plug, no longer held down by spring pressure.

It moves freely up until it reaches the shear line, where it "hits a wall" and can move no further. When the plug turned slightly, it trapped the top pin above the shear line, preventing it from re-entering the plug. You must be careful to avoid touching the front-most pin with the blade of the tool, but this position has the advantage of allowing maximum room to maneuver the pick. In particular, you should feel when you set a pin as much in the torque tool as you do in the pick. Much of lock picking skill depends on testing pins stacks for the purpose of finding which to push up next and assuring that no pins are overset. If you inadvertently push a pin up too far or are applying so much torque that more than one pin is binding, you may have an overset pin instead. You should already be able to distinguish between an unset pin that isn't binding, an already set pin, and a pin that is binding. Now the plug is being prevented from moving by the next most misaligned pin (which, in this case, is the other pin, since there are only two). There are exceptions, however.

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Clarendon Press, Oxford, U.K., 2000, edited by Tom L. Beauchamp. If you release pressure with your pick while still applying torque, the bottom pin will drop freely, and will not have any spring pressure if you try to push it back up. Now release torque and try again, but this time lift the pins as little as you can when you test them, while still distinguishing between the two states. Now apply torque in the other direction. Now re-apply torque and set the first binding pin. Now (as long as you continue to apply torque) the other pin should be binding. Now the top pin is above the shear line and the bottom pin is below it. You'll notice that it resists more than it did in the previous exercise because its top pin is pinched between the plug and the shell at the shear line by the torque you're applying. This keyway is a bit more "open" (it's intended to allow several different key profiles to fit in it), and so requires the use of a larger pick than the Arrow AR1 keyway does. This technique requires a great deal of practice to master, but has the surprising property of sometimes being more effective against better made locks.

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