I thought the mass destruction of Armenian monuments in Nakhchivan was a great shame of our nation." Aylisli’s new essay also references a telegram he sent to Azerbaijan’s president in 1997, the year "when that monstrous vandalism had just begun." Aylisili had actually published the text of this telegram in 2011 in a privately released Russian-language book with a circulation of just 50 copies. "After replacing his father in 2003 as president," Yunus told us, "Ilham Aliyev upgraded Armenophobia to the levels of fascist Germany’s anti-Semitism." The final purge of Nakhichevan’s medieval Armenian monuments, according to Yunus, was conceived by Ilham Aliyev to boost his nationalist credentials, while Vasif Talibov happily complied to remain in charge. The breathtakingly ornate stones of the world’s largest medieval Armenian cemetery were no more. Women and children in the village of Khramort were also being evacuated for security reasons, the Artsakh Information Center reported. Three children and a woman were inside their house at the time woke up to the shooting. At the time of the demolition, Azerbaijani historian Ziya Bunyadov downplayed the destruction

Except for the peculiarity of flat fields on otherwise uneven terrain, it was as if no human had ever touched the landscape, just as Azerbaijani leaders intended. However, according to Azerbaijani officials this reported destruction was a farce, that the site had not been disturbed, because it never existed in the first place. Awed by Aylisli’s nostalgia for his birthplace, the Russian journalist traveled to Nakhichevan to see the area with his own eyes. In a wiretap dated May 21, 2009 Büyükfırat informed Mullah Muhammed about new recruits in Azerbaijan and told him Mullah Muhammed‘s first book had been translated into Azeri and would soon be published in Russian. In a recent interview with the authors, Ayvazyan recalled that Comrade Heydar Aliyev told him in Russian, "Never again do such things, there are no Armenian-Shmarmenian things here! Presiding judge Canel Ruzgar did not like what he heard from the police intelligence chief and said he could not level accusations against Büyükfırat, who was listed as a complainant in the defamation case against him. Since centuries of imperial warfare over the strategic Armenian Highland had diversified the region’s ethnic makeup, newly-independent Armenia and Azerbaijan confronted overlapping territorial claims. Since the 1994 ceasefire among newly-independent Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Nagorno-Karabakh, mutual accusations of vandalism and revisionism have been rampant. According to reports from the ground, Azerbaijan intensively fires toward Artsakh villages, threatens residents, and hinders their agriculture work. The actual number of deaths is still unknown, but around 5,000 Armenians were reportedly killed, and approximately 90,000 were forcibly displaced from their ancestral lands

Yet a tourist in Nakhichevan, which was not a war zone, would encounter neither Armenian heritage sites nor public acknowledgment of the region’s far-reaching Armenian roots, including the medieval global trade networks launched by Djulfa’s innovative merchants. Such a shift likely occurred in response to the rebellious cultural awakening in Armenia, which, as Armenian-American scholar Pietro Shakarian argues, was among the first Soviet republics to experience the "Thaw" and de-Stalinization. By the late 1980s when the Soviet Union crumbled, less than 4,000 Armenians remained in Nakhichevan-so few that the exclave avoided the ethnic warfare that exploded in Karabakh where a larger Armenian population remained under the administration of Muslim Azerbaijan. Baroness Cox, a long-standing campaigner for the protection of Armenian heritage in Azerbaijan who has urged the British government to take action, told The Art Newspaper that, despite the influential Armenian Diaspora, both the US and UK administrations are more concerned with cultivating close relations with oil-rich Azerbaijan and its ally Turkey, than with Armenia. Unable to hold Azerbaijan accountable for the purge of Nakhichevan’s Armenian cultural heritage, Armenians and their allies have rethought what forms justice might take. "I’m telling you to take up your guns and kill them," he said in recorded sermons, adding, "If the sword is not used, then this is not Islam." According to Mullah Muhammed, all Muslims were obligated to respond to then-al-Qaeda leader Osama bin Laden’s armed fight

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